Color Coded™ 'Knock 'em Red' Coneflower (Echinacea)
Perennial
- Crimson-red flowers add late-summer interest to garden.
- Native perennial perfect for sunny garden beds.
- Deer-resistant, drought-tolerant, & overall easy to grow.
- Loved by pollinators, especially bumblebees!
- Zones 4-8, sun/part sun, 20-24" tall x 16-20" wide at maturity.
ZONE
EXPOSURE
HEIGHT
Description
Coneflowers (Echinacea) are native perennials beloved by gardeners for their cheery flowers, pollinator-attracting power, and easy-growing nature. Their flowers attract bees and butterflies; after they fade, seedheads provide food for birds through the winter. Since they're drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and durable, they are easy for gardeners to enjoy at any level.
Details
Patent #: PPAF
Common name: Coneflower, Echinacea
Zone:4-8
Sun exposure: Sun (6+ hrs sun) to part sun (4-6 hrs sun).
Height x width: 20-24″ x 16-20″
Flower color: Red
Foliage color: Green
Season of Interest: Summer-fall
Bloom time: Summer, fall
Features: Proven Winners, native, low flammability, drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, container plants, best sellers, low-maintenance, pollinator-friendly, heat-tolerant
Uses: Border, cottage gardening, massing, naturalizing, pollinator plant, native plant, wildflower.
How to Grow
Light: Full sun. Plant them in a spot that gets at least 6 hours of full sun a day. If planted in too much shade, plants may flop or strain to reach the sun.
Water: Average. Water regularly the first season to encourage good root growth. Though coneflowers handle heat and dry conditions well once established, they appreciate regular watering and flower more if they are not stressed.
Spacing: Minimum 20 inches apart.
Fertilizing: Little needed. Over-fertilizing will cause spindly growth, so once in the spring with a granular garden fertilizer is more than sufficient.
Winterizing: Avoid damp spots. Do not heap mulching over crowns in winter, as this can cause rot. Leave the foliage and old flowers standing for winter (birds enjoy the seed heads), then trim back or remove spent foliage in early spring before new growth emerges.
Maintenance & Pruning: Once planted, they are best left alone, as they do not transplant well. Deadheading (snipping off the spent blooms) is not necessary but does increase new flower production.
Plant spacing is based on the ultimate width of the plants. This figure is normally given as a range; for example, 3-5’. If you live in a cold climate and/or want plants to fill in more quickly, plan to space at the shorter end of the range. If you live in a warm climate, are on a limited budget, or are willing to wait longer for plants to touch, use the higher end of the range. Using the larger number is recommended when calculating distance from a building or structure. There’s really no such thing as "maximum spacing": if you don’t want your plants to touch, you can space them as far apart as you’d like. All plant spacing is calculated on center, or in other words, the centers of the plants are spaced one half of their eventual width apart:
Unless you are planting in a straight line, as you might for hedges or edging, space your plants in a staggered or zig-zag pattern for a more interesting and naturalistic look:
Not sure just how many plants will fit in your garden? Our calculator gives you the exact amount of plants required for your space. Simply update the values and the calculator will re-calculate accordingly. Spacing information can be found in the 'How to Grow' tab on each plant's page.